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THE SOCIETY ISLANDS :
Tahiti, Society Islands
Normally a no-nonsense guy, even taciturn Captain
Cook fell madly in love with Tahiti. When Cook and
botanist Joseph Banks landed in Matavai Bay in 1769,
they found an untouched Eden. But it was the glowing
tales of French explorer Compte Antoine de
Bougainville that forever perpetuated the image of
Tahiti as a voluptuous paradise of nature, attracting a
bevy of followers, notably artist Paul Gauguin and
writer Robert Louis Stevenson. Nearly 400 miles
square, and almost bisected by the sea, Tahiti is skirted
by miles of white and black sands. In the lushly
forested mountains, waterfalls gleam and a sacred lake
hides the spirits of the gods.
Huahine, Society Islands
A laid back haven for surfers, ex-pats and others who
prefer the road less traveled, Huahine offers an
authentic example of what the islands used to be.
Tahitian, rather than French, is the lingua franca and
the island’s numerous archaeological digs offer a fascinating
window into the past. In sacred maraes reminiscent
of Stonehenge, giant stones looking like
gravestones remind you that human sacrifices were
part of the Polynesian religious rituals. Near the settlement
of Faie, ogle six-foot blue-eyed eels undulating
in the water.
Raiatea, Society Islands
When you venture up the jungle-clad shores of
Raiatea’s Faaroa River you could well believe you’d
been transported to pre-European times. A hike up
Mt. Temehani might lead you to the sacred Tiare
Apetahi flower, found only on Raiatea, while a walk
through the sacred Marae Taputapuatea takes you to
the place where the ancient Polynesians set out to
explore the vast reaches of the Pacific, ranging from
New Zealand to Hawaii and Easter Island. Raiatea is
also birthplace of the legendary god, Hiro, father of
the Polynesians. The hibiscus tree, or purau, is the
wood used since time immemorial for outriggers of
Polynesian proas.
Taha’a, Society Islands
Just a kiss away from Raiatea is the island of Taha’a.
Site of vanilla plantations, pearl farms and not much
else, it’s a delightfully quiet reminder of the old
island ways. From the invitingly named little fishing
village of Patio, take a boat out to a local pearl farm
to see how pearl oysters are cultivated or savor an
afternoon of basking in the shade of a palm tree on
one of the tiny motus that dot the lagoon. The sunset
view of Bora Bora in the distance will keep your
camera very busy.
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Bora Bora, Society Islands
Even if you’ve never been there, most people recognize
the chiseled peak of Mt. Otemanu on Bora Bora.
This is where James Michener was stationed as a
young naval officer, which later inspired him to write
Tales of the South Pacific. You can find remains of
rusting WWII gun batteries hidden in the jungle-choked hillsides. Then quench your thirst at a
bar called Bloody Mary’s. In pre-European times, Bora
Bora was the launching place for fierce war parties to
other islands. Today the peaceful lagoon is a favorite
snorkeling place where you can hand feed harmless
black-tipped sharks.
Moorea, Society Islands
Beloved by yachtsmen, Moorea’s heart-stopping beauty
is a vision of paradise that takes your breath away.
This was the real-life site of Michener’s longed for
“special island,” Bali Hai. Star Flyer anchors in both
Cook’s Bay and Opunohu Bay, so you’ll have two
opportunities to savor every glorious view of this
spectacular island. Take a 4X4 ride to the old Kellum
Stop Estate and the top of Belvedere, where your
Polynesian guide picks fresh fruit from a tree to refresh
your palate as you drink in the stunning panorama.
THE TUOMOTUS:
Fakarava, Tuamotu Atolls
More than 155 miles from bustling Papeete, and
contrasting markedly with the Society Islands’ volcanic
peaks, the far-flung Tuamotu Atolls are low-lying
coral atolls scattered in palm-topped leis on a languid
sea, seldom visited by tourists and cruise ships. Lucky
for you! For this is a naturalist’s nirvana and diver’s
delight. On Fakarava Lagoon, the Garuae Pass’
150 foot visibility offers in-your-face encounters with
enormous schools of dolphins, rays, sharks and rainbows
of reef fish. An old Catholic mission, dating from the
1850’s, watches over Fakarava’s 250 inhabitants, who
support themselves mainly by pearl farming.
Tiputa, Rangiroa, Tuamotu Atolls
The village of Tiputa has the charming ambience of a
faded French colonial town that remembers grander
times. Perhaps that’s because the main attractions are
not on shore but in the water. Rangiroa, the world’s
second largest lagoon, where the frilly-shelled pinctada
margaritifera oyster produces lustrous black pearls of
eye-popping size. At a local pearl farm, see how oysters
suspended in the lagoon are implanted with tiny
“seeds,” later harvested as the legendary South Seas
pearls. A drift dive or snorkeling in cave-lined Tiputa
Pass is an effortless passage through pelagic paradise!
Rangiroa Lagoon, Tuamotu Atolls
Rangiroa Lagoon is so large, 392 square miles, that
you can’t see from one side to the other. After a
leisurely cruise from Tiputa, Star Flyer will anchor for
an afternoon and night in the remote and seldom seen
southeastern part of the Lagoon. Here visitors can
explore a ghost town on a deserted motu where the
lonely spire of a tiny church is the only remaining
landmark. At Sables Roses, you’re in the pink
(literally!) when you dig your toes into the glowing
coral sands - and you won’t need rose-colored glasses! |